![]() ![]() Most of the introduced paints were modified to better control the delivery of biocide, to reduce environmental impact, or to target a specific region or environment.Īwlgrips Awlstar is an expensive paint with a good reputation, and any paint in this price range should hold off barnacles for at least 18 months at our test sites. All have participated in previous tests, although this is the first one-year checkup for several paints that were introduced or reformulated in 2008. The class of 2008-2009 attracted seven major paintmakers: Awlgrip, Blue Water, Epaint, Flexdel, Interlux, Pettit, and Sea Hawk. If in doubt about prep work, ask the new paints manufacturer for guidance. Whatever type of paint you buy, check the application guidelines and be sure it is compatible with the paint you have on your boat. Weve flagged the best of each of these subcategories with Recommended check marks in the tables. Within these hard and ablative categories are paints that cater to specific needs: Paints for aluminum hulls, paints for racing, water-based paints that are easy for the do-it-yourself to apply and reduce the amount of volatile organic compounds (VOC) released into the atmosphere, and eco-friendly paints with limited biocides. Although some “hard” ablative paints are suitable for trailering, ablatives generally wont tolerate a vigorous scrubbing as well as some hard paints. Other, advanced copolymer ablatives, are chemically engineered to release biocides at a more controlled rate. Basic workboat ablatives slough away with water friction to expose more biocide. ![]() ![]() Because of their chemistry, many hard paints lose their potency when they are stored out of the water for long periods (maximum time varies greatly).Īblative paints wear away through use, so you can recoat year after year without building up thick layers. Most hard paints can be burnished smooth for racing, and resist scrubbing well. Once a few seasons of paint have built up, a vigorous sanding prep is required to keep the hull smooth and clean. Long after theyve lost their antifouling properties, hard paints leave behind binding resins and pigments. The two types of paints work differently, but for our purposes, the most important distinction is the maintenance regimen for each. (See “How We Tested,” below.) The results are indicated in two tables (see pages 8 and 9), which are split between hard and ablative paints. This article focuses on the results of paint panels that were submerged in June 2008. In recent years, weve seen very good results in paints with relatively low percentages of copper, the most expensive raw material. While a drop in demand tied to the global recession might prompt special offers this spring, the only long-term price breaks were likely to see are through reformulated or new blends that try to make more effective use of less biocide. The formula changes seem most prevalent in the low-budget paints, as manufacturers try to meet a price point and still deliver a product that boaters can rely on. The formulas of several familiar antifouling paints were adjusted in recent years, and we expect more modifications as manufacturers grapple with the rising cost of raw materials and increased pressure from regulatory agencies to minimize the environmental impact of the paints. Bottom paint prices continue to rise, pushing the $300-per-gallon mark, and the expenses associated with bottom fouling can quickly eat into a maintenance budget.Īnother key reason to pay attention is that the technology-as well as the market-is rapidly changing. Practical Sailor spends a lot of time studying bottom paint for good reason. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |